M/Y "To Life" Family |
Hiking at Pipe Creek on the Exuma Sound
Sailor taking another dinghy rideSailor as the hood ornament for the dinkDog Snapper...WOW, look at those teeth!
left by the Loyalists
Point I ready to last time are walking home from school recognize me on the street
Remnants of another Thunderball Bar
Thunderball Grotto underwater photos
J and B YACHT ULTRA ADVENTURE
Staniel Cay to Marsh Harbour, Abacos
March 26 ,2010 – May 15, 2010
How could we forget to tell you this…..When we arrived back at the boat after snorkeling on Bill’s birthday. Bill cleaned the speared lionfish and cooked him up and we all three ate it. Neither us nor Sailor got sick. Good thing.
Conch you can pick up like flowers
Diving for more conch
Starfish in the shallows
Bill found some new boat line and sail hardware on the shore
Another Shark
Carrying Bikes across the creek
Club Thunderball Sign
Beautiful Exuma Sound
Spectacular waterfall made by Mother Nature
Bill preparing to spear lobster while JoAnne dinghies behind him
Sea Creature we found while wading in a Salt Pond
March 26 ,
Still anchored in the beautiful area between Big Majors and Little Majors. We decided to equalize all of the boat batteries today. We strung the hammock and awnings up and had some cold beers and chilled out onboard. We had just finished up our conch fritters on the deck when we had a great surprise. Bill had gone to the check on the batteries and I was cleaning up the galley. I heard him talking to someone. A tender had pulled up to us and was our good friends from M/Y “To Life” that live in Ft. Lauderdale. What a small world. They were staying a Sampson Cay Marina and were then headed north to the Abacos. We look forward to seeing them in Ft. Lauderdale. We had a great visit and then finished working on the boat. We left for the 007 party around 8:00 p.m. When we entered the harbor, the harbor wall was only showing 1 inch above the water. Due to the full moon, the tides are extremely high, about 2 feet more than normal. We beached the dink and set the anchor. We drank our wine and walked the dock to take a look at all of the megayachts that were showing off with their underwater lights and then every light lit up on board. The sharks were all laying on the white sand beneath the lit up sand. We ran into the Bahamian Defense Force who arrived on a previously confiscated Cigarette Boat. What a small world, one of the officers was onboard that we met during the Haitian Rescue. We told him that we had heard from Geronimo that the boat had been burned to prevent any infectious diseases from getting onto shore. TB is the number one scare. The yacht club was packed and we could hear the music of the James Bond films filling the air. We quickly saw all of the costumed attendees. The guys were in their tuxedos and the girls in their slitted dresses that exposed the toy gun that was in a holster on their thighs. It was quite a site to see. Since the megayachts were in town, the BlackJack bets coming from them were at least $100 per hand. Bill and I only bought $10 worth of chips, so we played $1 to $2 bets. In the end, we were ahead by $60. We had a great time and since we could not cash in our chips, we gave to them to the captain of “Trillion” sitting next to us.
JOANNE LOOKING INTO THUNDERBALL
March 28,
Today we headed out to snorkel. The weather has been so great and we are taking advantage of it. We went to Thunderball Grotto and got some great photos of it with our camera and lookey bucket. We came back home and got prepared for our departure tomorrow for Pipe Creek.
March 29,
We headed to Pipe Creek today. We snorkeled and hiked. We dropped the hook and headed ashore. This is such a beautiful area. We hiked the beach.
March 30,
We took a hike over to the Pipe Creek Yacht Club on the beach. Got a great photo of Bill that you will see in the blog photos. We then took a dink ride over to the flats to do some beachcombing and watch a fantastic sunset.
Today is our 1 year anniversary of cruising aboard ULTRA. We went snorkeling today and spearing. We snorkeled today and found a glass fishnet float. We were told that they are over 100 years old. We headed to the pass to dive for lobsters and fish. Not much luck. We checked every crack and crevasse and we could find, but no lobsters. The sea fans were wider than Bill’s shoulders and due to the tides the sea fans were sticking up above the water in the shallows and as the waves passed they look like waving hands. Too funny. We took a ride up to the beautiful Compass Cay. It was packed with megayachts. The weather has been fantastic. We made our way over to Compass Cay Marina to check out the megayachts stacked up like sardines at the dock. We went to a small cay beach and then ventured out for a dink ride all of the way around the island through the Exuma Sound. What a great surprise! We have had a great time this year and met so many wonderful people and seen so many spectacular sites. We celebrated by taking one of our old Ultra flags to Pipe Creek Yacht Club and signing it and making us and all of the sailors that have signed the life ring before us Lifetime Members of the Yacht Club. We are preparing for our departure to Cambridge Cay tomorrow. Since the tides are crazy, due to the moon, the flats seem to go on forever. We headed over to the flats and found lots of sanddollars and sea biscuits. JoAnne found another baby octopus that was beached and put him into an empty conch shell. Bill found a tulip shell and a large conch. We stayed for quite a while, but when the water started coming back in, we had to make a run for it. It was filling up fast and the dink was tied up to a rock out at the end of the flat. By the time we got back, we were wading in water up to our thighs.
April 1,
It is definitely not April Fool’s today. We had a great day snorkeling. The sea fans are and coral gardens were amazing.
At around 9:30 I told Bill I heard fireworks. We looked out the window of our stateroom and there was a spectacular fireworks display that lasted for 30 minutes. How expensive is that to have fireworks imported into the Bahamas.
April 2,
We departed Pipe Creek and headed off to Cambridge Cay. We had a great hike on the beach. A megayacht spent the night on a mooring and then left 8 hours later. We had a first homemade pizza tonight that turned out like a real pizza should. It was our friends’ S/V Sunspot Baby’s recipe I made my first pizza crust ever that turned out the way it is supposed to. Bill even took a photo of it rising in the pan.
ELKHORN CORALELKHORN CORAL BY ROCKY DUNDASMORE ELKHORNJOANNE IN CORAL GARDEN PARROTFISH ROCKY DUNDASJOANNE & ELKHORN CORALSEA FANS
April 3,
We headed off to snorkel today. There are spectacular coral gardens here. We drift snorkeling with the dink line in hand. Since we are in the Bahamas National Trust Park, everything is protected. There are giant groupers, snappers, lobsters and conch galore. They are not afraid and the lobsters even march across the white sandy bottom of the sea without a care in the world. After the coral gardens, we headed to Rocky Dundas Caves. . It was a higher tide this time, so it was much rougher in there than our last visit. Tonight we made our famous New Orleans Pralines for some boat friends. The recipe makes about 50 pralines, so we had them drying on every counter.
April 4,
We headed to snorkel the same area again today, since it seems to go on for miles. We took 2 dinghies and each couple just did a drift snorkel and hung on to the dink and watched the Bahamian aquarium go by. We then headed to see Little Hall’s Pond Cay and then to the snorkeling spot named “The Aquarium”. We took some great underwater photos including the airplane that crashed several years ago. On the way exploring, we saw several quaint resorts. Bell Island is owned by a sheik and he has several fantastic contemporary homes and villas on it. Then is was off to see the Pirates of the Caribbean. Well almost. We went to the private island that Johnny Depp recently purchased for $3.4 million. It is gorgeous and you will see photos of the island, houses, beach cabanas and tiki bar in our photo albums. Even one where Bill had JoAnne jump out of the dink and take a photo on Depp’s beach. The beaches are dotted with chaise lounges, skiffs used in the Pirates movies, great nautical signs and a paddle used for the gate to his home. The island is 45 acres and the views are spectacular from both sides. Anchored off of the main Depp beach was the164-ft Christensen motoryacht “Odessa”. It charters up to 10 guests and the cost is $240K-$262K per week. WOW!!
April 5,
We had another great day of snorkeling. It is an excellent place to snorkel. We missed snorkeling here last time, due to the cold fronts. We went to an area that full of giant sea fans, lobsters longer than the length of you arm, tons of tropical fish and corals. Since this is part of the Bahamas National Trust, it is a no take from land or sea. Therefore, everything is thriving and truly pristine.
April 6,
Arrived and Anchored at Emerald Rock, Warderick Wells. 24.22.778 N, 76.37.584W. We had a great sail today. We flew our mermaid spinnaker for the first time in several months. We dropped the hook and loaded up in the dink and headed to the park headquarters. We checked in and then headed to the point and had a sundowner.
Bill with sugar on his cap for the Bananaquats
Just before we saw another GREEN FLASH!
View from Warderick Wells Headquarters Deck
WE ARE SAILING WITH OUR MERMAID SPINNAKER
April 7,
Boo Hill Sign Displayed
Getting ready to hike up the hill
The pile of signs
More signs Bill standing over Blow Hole
We had a great snorkel today and then came back and changed and headed for Boo Boo Hill to deliver our beautiful sign that Bill made for us. All of the cruisers collect a piece of driftwood and then put their boat names and year they were there on it. It is the highest point in Exuma Park so the views are spectacular. We headed to see the Blow Holes. We also found some unmarked blowholes and climbed to the rocks below. It was just beautiful. Bill had me sit inside of the blow hole. Good thing, the tide and huge waves were not up like they were two days ago. We passed by the park headquarters on the way out, and got some sugar to feed the adorable bananaquats. They are cute little black and yellow birds. They eat sugar right out of your hand. Bill put some on cap and they all jumped on his cap right away. He then asked me to lie down and he put some on my stomach. The things you do for love, I suppose. Yes dear, whatever you day dear, just take the crazy photo dear. We arrived back to the boat and watched a spectacular sunset. We saw that there were no clouds on the horizon and prepared ourselves for another Green Flash. WE SAW IT AGAIN!! That is 3 in 3 month period. Some people go their whole life without seeing one. We saw the captain of M/V Adriana on the hill. He overheard our conversation with another boat and said that he would email us the photo of the green flash. Can’t wait to share it with all of you.
April 8,
Arrived Warderick Wells Mooring Field to prepare for our departure tomorrow. We took the E3 Mooring, 24.23.965, 76.38.167 Today we took it easy and prepared for our departure for tomorrow. We cleaned and stowed everything and are ready for our crossing tomorrow to Eleuthera.
Great sunset
April 9,
We departed Warderick Wells Exuma Park for beautiful Eleuthera. We set sail at 7:30 a.m. from the mooring ball and headed out for our 60 mile run. The winds were about 15 knots and the seas were great. We put the poles out right away, but did not have any luck. Bummer. Now we know that pink and white
(lure) is a fisherman’s delight. That is what mahi-mahi like. The only mahi-mahi that we caught was on a green and white. Another sailboat arrived just before us and caught a 22 lb. 4ft. mahi mahi off of Powell Point by Cape Eleuthera Resort. WOW! Hopefully when we write you again, we will have caught a motherload fish like that. : ) We arrived at 3:00 p.m. and dropped the hook. It is beautiful here. We decided to wait to go to town tomorrow. We had been up since 5:30 am and we wanted to be rested up for a full day tomorrow.
April 10,
We arrived at Rock Sound today, Eleuthera today. It is beautiful. A lot more lush than the other islands that we have been to lately. We took a walk around this wonderful settlement. The cottages are outstanding. Some of them were built over 200 years ago and are still standing despite the countless terrible hurricane strikes. We headed to town today and bought groceries at The Marketplace. We docked the dink at the Four Points Restaurant and walked about a mile down to the market. We were so pleased to see fresh fruits and vegetables. The mail boat comes here from Nassau on Tuesday and a shipment from the US on Thursday. The prices were very reasonable and the guy that checked us out owns The Marketplace as well as many other properties on the island. He arranged for us to get a ride back to the dink via his employee Christina and his own Suburban. There was even a movie playing for us on the DVD player, “Madagascar”. Too cute. We loaded up all of the bags and put everything away aboard and then loaded up and headed to walk around town. So beautiful. We met the nicest people and enjoyed all of the Bahamian style cottages. De-Von, the chef and part owner of the Four Points Restaurant told us there would be a Princess Cruise tour bus showing up at noon for a buffet, conch cleaning contest and conch salad, and a mini-Junkanoo tomorrow. We arrived and had a great visit with De-Von and he then treated us to lunch and we enjoyed the great show. We then had a great visit with De-Von and then headed off for a walk around the town.
Large Beehive in small caveMap of EleutheraBeautiful View of Rock Sound, EleutheraLunch at Four Points Restaurant, Rock SoundMini-Junkanoo at Four Points Restaurant in Rock Sound with the Princess cruise line passengers
The Dog Snapper that we purchased delicious Fillets of for dinner Not much head room in the cave
The Blue Hole on the Ocean SideOn the darker side of the cavesMore caves rooms to exploreRoot System of Banyan Trees AboveSpectacular Undergroud caves of Eleuthera - A MUST SEE!
April 11,
Today we loaded up the bikes and headed to shore to Four Points Restaurant. We arrived and had a great visit with De-Von and then treated us to lunch and we enjoyed the great show. We then had a great visit with De-Von and then headed off for a walk around the town. He told us exactly where the Blue Hole that we had read about was located. It was a short bike ride up the hill and the site was spectacular. The blue hole is so clear and aqua and it goes forever. The legend here is that it is bottomless. We then followed the stone marked path to the caves. WOW! It was the best cave that we have ever seen. The ones in Texas, Kentucky and Missouri, have nothing on this cave. It goes on forever and there are wonderful beams of light that shine down through the rock and the tree roots above. The ladder down into the cave was about 30 feet and then we kept on walking down deeper. The cathedral ceilings were unbelievable! We kept on squeezing through all of the narrow passageways. Bill was on his way into another cave and we were following, and we saw a snake. Bill jumped 10 feet high and it was huge. A big, black snake about 4 feet long was hanging on the edge of the wall. Bill made his way back and the snake slithered into a crack in the wall. The great thing about the Bahamas is that there are no poisonous snakes here. We made our way deeper into the cave and headed towards the exit. Well…….then I screamed out when a vampire bat flew 3 inches above Bill’s head and then into the ceiling where he joined his 30+ friends that were chirping away. I do not mind snakes, but bats are another story. I had visions of them swooping down and getting tangled in my hair. YIKES! Bill stayed and took photos. I stayed for a bit and then exited stage right! We had seen some bat guana back further in the cave, but no bats. We remember our bat experiences from our visits to Austin, Texas. We kept exploring the caves further. Amazing. The roots looked like something from Tarzan and you could just swing from room to room. The cobwebs were extreme, too. They looked like someone had come in and decorated for Halloween. They do have tarantulas here and we had seen one on the beach at Leaf Cay. We had heard some wonderful singing from across the rode. On the way home, we passed a beautiful traditional Bahamian home where 2 women were bottling (instead of canning) boiled tomatoes. They had collected Kalik beer bottles for a year, sterilized them by boiling them in a 55 gallon clean oil drum over a fire pit, and were then filling the bottles by funnel and had a bottle capper that her husband was going to use to cap each of them with new bottle caps. They were bottling over 100 bottles. When we checked it out, they were children singing such beautiful music. We listened for a bit and took a ride through town. We saw some wonderfully friendly children playing basketball. They were using a milk crate for a hoop. They asked if we could take photos of them shooting and making baskets. How fun! We then treated ourselves to the Bahamian treat of Guava Duff. We had been waiting for the fishing boats to come in. We got the word and headed for the dock. We purchased 6 fillets of Dog Snapper for $10. What a deal! We cooked in a skillet in the oven at 450 for 20 minutes with some spices and it was excellent. If you ever see it on the menu, you should order it!
We loaded up our bikes and headed to the Atlantic side of the island to checkout the beaches and then to the NorthSide Restaurant and Bar. There are stairs down to the beautiful seashell-filled beach below that is a must see. The beach where we went first had the most beautiful pink sand you imagine. There is only one house on the entire beach on the point that is owned by Simon Pearce, the famous glass blower from Vermont. While we were on the beach, we found some wonderful coconut palms. JoAnne collected some green ones off the tree with a long stick. We just cut open the coconut with a machete and then pour our rum into the coconut water inside and drink. Bill opened the brown coconut we found on the ground with a big rock and we all ate some. It was excellent. We were greeted by Ms. Rose, Teddy, her golden Labrador, and Joey, her white kitty. The rental cottages are 8-sided and painted Easter Egg colrs. They hang over the bluff and the views of ocean are incredible. We toured the wonderful bar inside the restaurant that has a groomed white sandy floor. The restaurant looks over the bluff and the ocean views are so beautiful. We had a great visit with Rose and she is taking us with her tomorrow to the beach to treasure hunt for some prized seashells. It was getting late so we headed back to the boats. We found a great use for the Giant Hershey’s Chocolate Bar that we won in Georgetown at the Regatta Party. Which by the way costs around $20.00 here. YIKES! We brought it home and made coconut macaroons and Magic Cookie coconut bars.
Rose's Water Tank for the Well
recyled materials. Note the tire foundation.
April 13,
We cleaned up the boat today, but then also started calling on the radio trying to get the gas station to phone Rose for us. We were trying to schedule to have her pick us up. We finally were able to reach someone to help us phone her, 4 hours later. She was so great to pick us up right away and was worried that we did not want to come since she could not reach us. We took us right away to go beachcombing and then lunch at her place. She served Lane Snapper. If you have never had it, you must order it next time you see it on the menu. EXCELLENT. Of course, we also had the traditional Pigeon Peas and Rice and Cole Slaw. This is the 3rd time that we have eaten out in all the time that we have been in the Bahamas. It was the best meal that we have had out , too. After lunch, she took us to another great beach. This is her work day that she uses to get all of her errands run instead of having the restaurant open today. We were very blessed to have her do this for us. We had a great time and did not get home until 7:00 p.m. She took us on a tour of the island. She took us to the famous Cotton Bay Estates that was developed by Juan Tripp former CEO of Pan-American Airlines. He since has sold it to Mr. Samiento of Columbia.
April 14,
We went to the beach and riding around town today. We got some fantastic photos. We are holding here for a few days for the weather to pass.
April 15,
Well today is tax day! Yikes! We had a great day today. Rose came to pick us up and we helped her with her well water pump issue and JoAnne also was able to do some last minute tax things online. We had a great day. We also were able to walk the great beach on her property. While Bill and Rose were out and about through all of the settlements of Eleuthera looking for parts, JoAnne and and Teddy walked the beach and found 3 seabeans while Bill and Rose went to the store. Bill and Rose returned with the parts and we all went down the hill to fix the pump. After lunch JoAnne and Rose waited on all of the lunch guests, Bill and JoAnne went to the beach found lots of great treasures in the flotsam and jetsam that floated ashore..
April 16,
Today Rose picked us up and we headed to help with the well. We then headed back to the house and she had a tremendous lunch rush. While Bill and Gene were busy working on the pump, Rose and JoAnne were working in the kitchen. JoAnne became the bartender/server and Rose was cooking up a storm. While Rose went to take the guests back to their boat, JoAnne cleaned the kitchen and Bill went to the beach to retrieve the SS bolts, screws and other hardware that we saw on the beach yesterday. When Bill returned, he proceeded to redecorate the entire entrance to Rose’s restaurant. It looked fantastic. JoAnne was in the kitchen with Rose making 50 sandwiches and a cake for her Theology class that night. What a great day. We will be headed to Governor’s Harbour tomorrow.
April 17,
We departed for Governors Harbour today. The sail was fantastic. We arrived early and headed to shore with the bikes. We visited the library that was built in the 1800s. We participated in the leave a book, take a book. A lot of fun. We enjoyed meeting all of the nice people in the settlement. Governor’s Harbour was the home of the Eleuthera Adventurers. The came in from Bermuda and England to escape the religious problems and set up the first Parliament and it is the first in the Western World. It used to be the Capital of the Bahamas, but now it is Nassau that is 30 miles north of here.
Haynes Library Built in 1897Haynes Library Built in 1897Haynes Library Built in 1897Roosting Roosters in Governor's BayUltra anchored in Governor's BayGovernor's Bay ChurchEstate overlooking Governor's Harbour
WOW! The cottage of bright colors!
April 18,
We took a great bike ride around the island. The white picket fences, lavish estates and quaint cottages are something out of a story book. The photos cannot express the beauty. The fill we cycled up and down was 142 ft. high.
Location of the restaurants, clubs, pools, before Hurricane Floyd took it away.The Beachhouse Bar & Restaurant
April 19,
We are still here in the beautiful Governor’s Harbour. We decided to let the rain clouds pass a bit and then loaded up our bikes and went up the steep hills and down again. So beautiful. We then headed down to the Beachhouse Restaurant and Bar. We had a quick soda and then headed for the old Club Med beach. The sand is so very pink. The corals make it pink as the waves grind across the reef. The water was so green and crystal clear. We walked the property of the old Club Med. Hurricane Floyd demolished the entire property. The main building that was on the front line of the beach was completely washed away. All that is left is the beautiful tile floors and the concrete foundation. Not one wall. The landscaping has been replanted and is gorgeous. We collected some more coconuts and some tropical plant seeds. There is only one flag left on one of the golf holes where the golf course used to be. If you have never been to Eleuthera, we cannot stress enough that you must visit here. It reminds of a cross between St. Croix, US Virgin Islands and Tahiti. The plants are so lush and the rolling hills and meadows are so beautiful. We arrived back to the harbour to find the wind had kicked up instead of lying down and we reanchored Ultra off of Levi Island. Less rolly and we could sleep better at night knowing we were in good holding sand rather than grassy and sandy bottom.
VW Bug parked in front of Cocodimama's
Trying to get online, just kidding.. : )Part of an aircraft of some kind.Dinner aboard with Sven & Marcilina
.
April 20,
Anchored off of Cocodimama in Alabastar Bay: 25.15’.936, 976.19’.272
We departed early and headed for beautiful Alabastar Bay. Upon arrival, we were greeted by kayakers. We met Sven (Swiss) and Marcilina (Columbian). They are from New York, but also live and work in Paris and London. They work in the fashion industry with the photographers. We took a hike to the beach. We visited the Cocodimama Boutique Hotel and Restaurant and then off to the former US Naval Base site. The beach also pink and is fantastic. Upon entrance into the property, there are old military buildings, etc. that dot the property. The roads are in perfect condition. The beach was wonderful and we even found part of some sort of military aircraft that had washed up on the beach. When we were about to the leave, we saw Marcilina and Sven arriving with the manager of the resort that they are staying at in Alabaster Bay, Cocodimama. We invited them to dinner aboard our boat. We cooked Manhattan style conch chowder, sourdough bread and guava duff. We had a great time. We were having a conversation about some stinky sand that was located on the beach and JoAnne said “PeeYoo” as in stinky. Well, then while Bill was talking to explain the story, Sven and Marcilina were having a discussion amongst themselves. Bill asked is everything okay. They said, we are sorry to be asking this question, but what does PeeYoo mean? Is that a derogatory term? We said no and explained that Americans say when someone does not smell very good. They thought we were saying, “P.U.” and it stood for something. Well, this is when you realize across different cultures, you have to sometimes watch what you say because it can easily be misinterpreted. We had a wonderful treat. Sven and Marcilina brought us two bottles of French Malbec. Fantastic. It has been a long time since we have had a good bottle of wine. The wine that we brought from the US has turned to port. Yuk! We killed both bottles at the dinner party tonight. What a treat!
Approaching Entrance to Hatchet BayIt is 80 ft. wide and we are 26 ft., but it sure looks narrow doesn't it???
April 21,
Anchored in Hatchet Bay: 25.20.813N, 076.29.326W We will depart for Hatchet Bay today. We arrived in Hatchet Bay and picked up a mooring ball. They are free and we put double bridle lines on the ball. They are definitely in better condition than the ones that experienced in the Exumas in February. We went to town to drop off Marcilina’s sunglasses that we discovered this morning that she had left behind last night. We are only about 15 miles down the road from Cocodimama, so we phoned the manager, Michael, and he is picking them up this evening at the local bar and restaurant. We bought carrots and pigeon peas. Bill has mastered the art of making the best Cole Slaw ever. He uses Rose’s recipe, so he definitely cannot go wrong. I will practice making Bahamian Peas ‘N Rice tomorrow. We are off in a few minutes to meet with another boat that understands how to download weather from the SSB via our Ham Radio License email service. We have been doing this already, but want to be sure that it is correct and specific to our weather needs, since our life depends on it. We will use it in conjunction with Chris Parker’s morning SSB weather report.
RAINBOW IN HATCHET BAY
April 22,
We are still on a free mooring here Hatchet Bay. Bill is working on the head today. JoAnne is cleaning. We had a small rainshower today and a beautiful rainbow. Don’t let the name Hatchet Bay fool you. This is a beautiful settlement and the people here are so helpful and friendly. The settlement got its’ name from the times when farming was a booming business here. They used to have very large chicken farms, Angus farms, and grew many crops. Eleuthera was the largest supplier of agricultural products to Nassau, Bahamas and the entire Bahamas chain. They would take the leftovers from the slaughter house and trailer them down to the ocean and throw it to the sharks. When Hurricane Andrew hit here with its 250+ winds, it truly devastated this area. The wonderful farming community never bounced back from the damage. Locals have taken over areas of the farms and old sell their local fare, but only for this island. At 1:00 today, S/V Soul Mates came over to talk more about weather Gribs. Since our life depends on the weather, we will happily take all of the education we can get. At around 8:00 p.m., and a few coconut rum and cokes later, Chuck saw something in the sky. We knew the space shuttle had already landed and had not heard of any other launches from Cape Canaveral. It was a beautiful site. We took several photos. They do not do it justice, but it gives you some idea. Today we also saw a huge waterspout in the sky. Glad we were not out in the open ocean with that around us. After the spout, there was a spectacular rainbow.
We are still here in Hatchet Bay. We hade an intuition that we might have an issue with our health insurance and had to find a landline phone right away to place a collect call. We have American Express and were told if we ever needed anything worldwide, just phone them on their collect number. However, our Bahamas cell phone does not place collect calls. Well, we headed to shore to find a land line. Four hours later, after going to a restaurant and a beauty salon, we found a local Inn that graciously allowed us to use their phone that could place collect calls. American Express patched us through, due to the fact you cannot place 800 numbers from the Bahamas and all we had was the 800 number for health insurance. The representative that we had spoken to before we left in December did not apply our credit card to our policy. We got it taken care of right away. What a relief. Also, if you ever need to air-flighted out of a country, American Express can arrange for that, too. We were going to go to the cave today, but instead we went back to beauty salon to thank her for allowing us to try her phone. Bill asked if she could do my hair, so he would have a break. He only has to do every couple of months, but it takes some patience. Solivia did a wonderful job and I really enjoyed hearing the stories from the local ladies and listening to their charmingly proper accents. Bill came to pick me up at the dock and we bought some jackfish from the local fishing boat that had just arrived for an extremely reasonable price. We then went over to another moored boat that he had met in the harbour. The lady is from Austin, TX and the guy is from Coconut Grove, Fl. We had a nice visit and then headed back to the boat for the night. We also had great entertainment when we arrived home. The local children have made homemade boats out of old wooden pallets and lumber and block styrofoam they scavenged for from the beach on the oceanside.
Bill towing the sailors back down the harbour so they can sail down again
ROAD TO THE CAVES
HATCHET BAY CAVE SIGN
Bill walking on the cliff's ede hunting for the caves
Inside the Cave
They have rigged their sailboats
Hatchet BayCaves
Cave inside the Hatchet Bay Harbour
Our cave trip with the children
The cave from the bank side
April 24,
We had a great day today. We cleaned up the boat and then were headed off to the Hatchet Bay Caves. We had a great surprise as we were about to leave. Our friends from “Tybee Time” in Panama City, Fl. Arrived here in the harbour. We have not seen them in over a year. We helped them with their mooring ball and then headed off to town. After helping them with the mooring ball, we were off to rescue the kids that had gotten caught by the wind. They had been fishing in the harbour and the wind had definitely picked up in the past few hours. We loaded them up in the dink and towed their 3 boats back to the dock. We then hitched a ride to the caves. A Deacon and his lovely wife gave us a ride. We found the caves, but it took some searching. We followed the trails, of which there were many. The landmark for the caves is a series of old silos from the farming days. There are beautiful fields of crops that are being tended to by the locals. In the rich soil here, they are growing cabbages, bananas, pineapples, squash, peppers, avocados, mangoes, etc. After walking all of the way to the oceanside and not finding the caves, we walked back towards the Queen’s Highway and saw a rusty handrail that looked like it led down underground. It was the cave, but it was pitch black after about 50 ft. We definitely needed our 10,000,000 million candlepower flashlight in tow. We hitched a ride home in the back of a pick up truck. Soul Mates had invited us and another boat over for cocktails and hors’. However, the party soon got bigger and we offered up our boat, since it can accommodate a lot of guests. We spotted the kids on their boats at the dock. We collected up some more goodies to take to the kids. While I spruced up the boat, Bill took over some old Ultra banner flags so they could make sails for their boats, some donated baseball caps, fish hooks and line. We had 14 guests aboard tonight for the Sundowner at 5:30. We had a lot of fun and the last of our guests left at 10:30. Around 6:00 p.m., Martin and Cabel cruised by aboard their boats and had their new masts built and the flags rigged up. They were sailing by in around 5 knot winds. They were waving and having a great time. They are natural born sailors! Too cute. We all went to cheer for them and to take photos. Dirk even blew one of our conch horns. We are so proud that the kids are so smart and really know how things work. Their ingenuity is so impressive. They truly know how make due with what they have.
April 25,
We slept in this morning and worked on a few projects. It was then time to go exploring. We saw Martin and Cabel aboard their boats and they were setting sail down the harbour. However, now the winds were about 15 knots, and they fly down the harbour sailing, but then have to scull their way back. Chuck had given them a piece of ski rope to tie on the sail, rather than to hold it. Between Chuck and us, the kids got to experience sailing one way and we towed them back each time. They came to visit us at the boat and delivered fresh fish that had just caught and cleaned for us. They are so sweet and have perfect manners. Bill fixed their sculling paddle by putting on a mop handle extention. We asked them where the cave was located in the harbour. Turns out, it is just off of our stern. We headed over there with Soul Mates and were getting ready to walk onto the iron rock shore, and the boys were there to meet us to be our escorts. What fun! By the way, they were barefoot walking on iron rock. We each have one Teva sandals and they are really getting a workout on the iron rock. It is so sharp and jagged that with one slip, it would shred your foot. We had a great time being shown the cave. It got narrower and we were on our hands and knees with our underwater spotlight to show the way. We then came home and stowed everything onboard and put out all of the containers that can collect fresh rain water.
April 26,
We worked on the SSB most of the morning. Chris Parker told us to expect 40-50 knot squalls today with heavy rain. We are also working on the GRIBS, since there is a lot of weather activity today. We are still tucked into this fantastic harbour. It is known to be the “Best Hurricane Hole in the Bahamas”. We went into town to take a nice walk around. We then arrived back home. About 30 minutes later, we heard the conch horns blowing. Martin and Cadel were sailing by. We are so impressed and we took several photos. They are truly naturals. They are on their way to go fishing at the entrance to the harbour. They use Cuban hand reels. We also sent them over there to retrieve the wood and Styrofoam that we had seen on the shore from another boat. They are doing such a great job sailing in their homemade boats. They caught several fish, however, Bill was off to the rescue. He has become their one-way tow service. As Bill was towing, JoAnne noticed that part of the Styrofoam had come loose and was drifting away. She yelled out to Bill to get it. Dirk from Tybee Time was onboard getting a few movies to borrow for the night. He quickly left and retrieved it with his dinghy. The boys were so polite that they did not want to tell Bill that part of their boat was drifting off.
April 27,
We tried to do some internet work today, but ending up helping another vessel with their dinghy that was falling apart. The bottom of the dinghy had become separated from the sides and was totally filled with water. We stayed at their boat for cocktails and hors. Our new favorite drink is rum, tonic and lime. We stayed until 10:00 p.m. We then headed over to Tybee Time to retrieve our movies. While we were helping Gone Away with their dinghy, Dirk and Nancy had been to the beach. They struck gold, lots of sea beans and sea glass. They told us of where to find some really large conch in the Abacos. They will be headed south tomorrow with Gone Away.
View of gardens in Spanish Wells via our bike ride
Painted Fish Floats
Rita the manatee
Hand Feeding Rita
Twin pooches on the Golf Cart
Hot Wheels
Interesting Boat Name
Lobster Boat gearing up for the next season
The Halo Around the Sun The Barracuda that we caught on the way to Spanish Wells
April 28,
Anchored off of Spanish Wells.
We are sad to depart beautiful Hatchet Bay, but looking forward to coming back here next year. We had a great sail today. All sails were up and we were cruising at 8 knots. We headed north to Spanish Wells. We traveled with Soul Mates. With all of the fresh rain water, JoAnne was able to do 4 loads of laundry in the Splendid washing machine. We put out two rods. In no time, we hooked a big one. Bill reeled it in. It was a 4 ft. barracuda. We quickly released him. We then caught another fish 2 hours later. Another 4 ft. barracuda. Too bad it was not a Mahi-Mahi, but at least we had the thrill of catching something. We have been on the Spanish Wells mooring ball list for over a week, but they only have 8 and only one of those can accommodate us. We are in a great anchorage here and it is saving us the mooring fee of $15 per day. We launched the dinghy and headed to town. It is so cute and the cottages are painted like Easter eggs. The full moon was spectacular and lit up the entire sound.
April 29,
Today was a great day. We loaded up our bikes and also got our Yamaha Outboard serviced for its warranty maintenance. We unloaded them at the dinghy dock. The mechanic made time to work on our motor while we took a great tour of the town. We went over to the fishing dock where all of the boats are getting loaded up for the lobster season. Lobster season just ended on March 31 and will start up again on September 1. They make their traps just as we had seen them do on our trip to Belize a few years ago. They take galvanized sheet metal and wood blocks and 2 X 4's and make what they call "lobster condos". They called them sheds in Belize. They are not baited. Since lobsters are social creatures, they crowd together with each other. When one is there, they all want to be there. Therefore, when they collect the lobsters in the traps, they always leave at least one in there. We then headed down the road. We saw a lady throwing lettuce in the water. She was feeding Rita the manatee. She explained that Rita has been in and out of the harbour for over 15 years. She came from Florida. This wonderful lady is feeding Rita 3 times a day 3 heads of Romaine Lettuce. Here in Spanish Wells, the Romaine Lettuce is $2.40 per head. She is extremely generous and have been doing this for years. She gave JoAnne a whole head of lettuce to feed to Rita. What a great experience. The exciting news about Rita is that she is pregnant and due any day. What a wonderful creature. We were then off to explore the town. Lots of steep hills and sandy lanes. We got a great workout and when we arrived back our motor was done. We headed back to the boat to prepare for our departure to Little Harbour tomorrow. We will be crossing with Soul Mates and New Attitude. We were also given some wonderful fish that Soul Mates brought by to us. They local fishermen gave them an entire bag full that they did not need. How generous.
Reeling in the first 5 ft. Mahi Mahi
He is in the boat!
The Second Mahi Mahi
Bill ready to fillet fish for 3 hours!
April 30, We departed Spanish Wells on our crossing to Little Harbour Abaco. We had a great sail and were with Soul Mates and New Attitude. We had both poles out with topwater lures and were catching nothing but seaweed. We decided to put out weighted lures and one was yellow and white, hoping to catch something. JoAnne put the line way out there, as the guys told us when we were in Florida. Within 30 minutes, the line went ZZZZZZZZZ. YEA!! We had something big! We would the boat in neutral and Bill reeled in the big one! JoAnne got the gaff hook and we saw a 5 ft. Mahi Mahi jumped out of the water. HOW EXCITING! We have caught a Mahi Mahi, but this time, we were determined to get him into the boat. Bill got him up to the boat and JoAnne gaffed him. This was a new experience for both of us! It was a male Mahi Mahi and he was in the boat! We quickly poured what we thought was tequila, but turned out to be Triple Sec on his gills and he quickly stopped flopping around. We put the lure back in the water and way out again. Bill put the Mahi Mahi on the fillet table and was ready to fillet. Oh my, ZZZZZ again. We caught another Big One. Same drill, reel it in, BIG BLUE/GREEN/YELLOW!! We had caught another Mahi. Bill reeled him in and JoAnne gaffed him. We pulled in another 5 ft. Mahi. Bill filleted fish for 3 full hours. We arrived in Little Harbour with a freezer and refrigerator full of Mahi.
Pete'sPub Little Harbour, AbacoArt GalleryView of Harbour from Pete's PubLost Wax Process for sculpturesBronze Sea TurtleRichard is Hot! Hot! Hot! from the flaming fires
Mahi Mahi and Conch for Six
May 1,
Today we dove for conch and found the largest conchs we have ever found. It was a deep dive. We collected our limit and cleaned them on the beach. We came home and took sun shower and then it was off to Pete’s Pub. We had a great walk on the beach and through town and then the Gallery and Foundry and a beer at Pete’s Pub. We came home and got ready for the dinner party. We had invited Soul Mates from Miami and New Attitude from the Chesapeake over for Mahi Mahi and Conch Fritters. We had a great time and great conversation! They arrived at 6:30 and departed at midnight.
May 2,
We slept in today and then headed to the beach and then conching again. We decided to measure the depth of our free dives by marking the dink tow line and all of the anchor line. We collected our limit again and then headed to the beach to clean them. We froze one of them to safe the shell and then thaw it in a bucket of salt water for a few minutes and remove the conch. The shell is as large as your head and then some! We collected a ton of sea glass. Even blue and purple. We measured the length of the line and learned that we could free dive with just a snorkel, mask and fins at a depth of 30 ft. to collect the conch.
May 3,
Do Not worry, so starfish were harmed in this wonderful presentation. They were all returned to their home in the sugar white sandy bottom.
We had a great walk on the beach. There was not one footprint and a wonderful selection of seashells and seaglass. We then headed to beautiful Tavern Cay. You will see the view from our anchorage in the photos. It is the house that looks like it is part castle.May 4,
Today we departed Tavern Cay and headed south again for the beautiful Sandy Point that we had missed on the way up. We had a FANTASTIC snorkel. The sea fans were as wide as Bill’s shoulders, the elkhorn coral was a wide as a telephone poll, and lots of eagle rays. On the way back to the dink, we were even greeted by a 5 ft. black tip shark. He looked at us and we looked at him. The interesting thing is neither him nor us was phased. He went his way and we headed to the dink. Since we do not have a digital underwater camera, we got out our trusty looky bucket and took photos that way. Great underwater shots! We then headed for Tilloo Cay.
May 5,
Departed Tiloo Cay to Hopetown Anchored by lighthouse: 26.32.546N,76.58.075W
HAPPY CINCO DE MAYO EVERYONE! OR AS THEY HERE, HAPPY DRINKO DE MAYO!! No mariachis here, but lots of Island music. We celebrated today by having a great snorkel off of the Bank. We had been here a couple of years ago when we were on vacation in a small Albury skiff. We dove for sea biscuits, sand dollars, and Pink Sunrise Tellins. We also filled up the entire dink with humongous starfish just to have a great photo shot. We returned them all back to their spots in the beautiful sugar white sand. There is some rain in the distance towards Hopetown, so we took a dink ride around to the beaches to let it pass. We found a coconut with a shoot growing out of it. We met some of our friends anchored in Tilloo Pond and had a great visit. We then headed off to Hopetown. We flew our beautiful spinnaker the entire way. The color of the sail matches the water. We are anchored off of the famous red/white Hopetown Lighthouse. We launched the dinghy with drinks in hand and headed to town full of cottages with white picket fences. We met up with our friends aboard Soul Mates and Fundy Passage.
May 6,
We are still anchored in beautiful Hopetown. We had a great day today. Soul Mates came over and brought us some big and beautiful seashells that they had found, a flame disburser that goes on the gas range, and the place to order powdered eggs, since refrigeration is limited onboard. They are off to Marsh Harbour and we have loaded up our bikes and are headed to town. We biked all over town and then ended up at the Hopetown Harbour Lodge for one drink each and had the swimming pool all to ourselves.
We are at the coffeehouse working online and have met some of the nicest people. Some of the people there were with the large wedding party that was being held on Saturday. We finally got the internet somewhat up and running. We then headed off for a bike ride around town. We were then off for the Harbour lodge. We swam in the pool and enjoyed the views. It was 80 degrees and we had not been in a pool since last October. We then headed to the lighthouse, but it was already closed. We will see it again in a about a week. We had a great visit with the fisherman at the dock and the dockmaster of Lighthouse Marina. They know some of the same people that we know in the Exumas. What a small world. Ken gave us a huge spiral seashell.
May 8, Anchored in Great Guana Cay: 26.39.883N,077.06.692W
We departed Hopetown and headed off to Fowl Cay to snorkel. It was great! The weather was perfect and the Atlantic Ocean smooth as glass. After the snorkel, we headed to Great Guana Cay and were anchoring. We were ready for a swimming pool again and heard someone shout our names. Our friends from New Attitude saw us as they were riding by on their golf cart and hailed us the VHF and asked us to go with them to Grabber’s. We quickly got our things together and headed to Grabber’s. Jack was so gracious and came to pick us up in the golf cart at the dock. We jumped into the pool. We had a great visit and then they lent us their golf cart from 5-midnight. They are headed north tomorrow, so they will turn in early tonight. We will see them in the Chesapeake this summer. The golf cart was great. We toured the entire island and the views were spectacular. We came home and made the cracked conch recipe that Lloyd from Hopetown gave to us. It was excellent and easy!
May 9, 2010We worked on a few boat projects and then headed into town. We made our way over to Grabber's and swam in the pool and then got into the hammock and listened to the wonderful live Bahamian music. We were then off to Nipper's. This place is famous for their drinks and also for their Sunday Pig Roast. We made our way down the sandy lane and were greeted by the friends that we had met at the Harbour Lodge in Hopetown that were all part of a wedding party. We enjoyed hearing about yeterday's wedding from the bride and the groom and the rest of the party. They had chartered a boat and brought 50 people over from Hopetown to Nipper's. They all had had quite a few of the famous frozen Nipper's drinks. We arrived at the bar and there was a huge party and the place was packed! We made our way to the beach to escape the crowds for a bit. We then decided to sit poolside and watch the people. It reminded us alot of what we saw in the charter boat business. We had a great time and then off to the dink. On the way home, we met Milo and he had some wonderful produce at great prices. We had not bought any tomatoes since we were in Rock Sound. We was so gracious and gave us extra tomatoes and threw in a green bell pepper so we could make conch salad.
May 10, 2010
We had a great walk around the Orchid Bay Marina. The views are spectacular and were totally entertained by the Guana Cay Sailing Club while sitting in the rocking chairs on the marina's wrap around porch. They were sailing around the harbour in a Sunfish and also a Dutch Shoe. Too cute.
May 11, 2010We departed the wonderful Great Guana Cay Harbour and headed for Treasure Cay. We arrived in the anchorage. This is a great place and the people are so friendly. We have not been here in a couple of years and the nice thing is, this place has not changed. We toured the town and headed to the beach. The water and the beach are amazing. We were able to take a hot shower at the club as part of the anchorage.
May 12,
We were off to the famous Café Florence. She is famous for her sticky buns. We were told by all of friends in Texas, to be sure and go there. Florence goes to the same that we do almost every year to visit. She has posters in her shop of many of the businesses and people that we know in the Clear Lake area. We shared a sticky bun and then off to the beach. We had a great bike around Treasure Cay. We biked from one end to the other. The cottages are beautiful and the tropical landscaping is a gardener’s dream. We arrived back at the marina and were ready for the pool. A few hours later, we then were joined by Chuck and Patty of Soulmates. While we were at the pool, the P49 Bahamian Defense Force Boat arrived. Bill wanted to check it out. We arrived and one of the crew was outside on the dock. He remembered us from the day that we assisted in the Haitian Rescue at Little Farmer’s. He said that he had also like Geronimo had seen us Bahamian television at the time of the rescue. He and the crew said it was amazing what we and the other boaters did that day and were able to feed all of the passengers. We had a wonderful chat and we look forward to seeing them all next year. It is great that we have now met 5 Bahamian Defense Boats and gotten the crew names and they also know us. He told us that Pizza Night is tomorrow night at the Tipsy Seagull Bar .
May 13,
We had a great day today. We worked on boat projects and then headed off to bicycle ride around the island. On the way to bike, we decided to crack open all of our brown coconuts. With a machete, Bill wacked away at them and I pulled the husk off. We will then scrape the coconut meat out, grate it and then cook with it. Can’t get any fresher than that. We were also running low on wine, so we wanted to check out prices. We lucked out big time. The Bristol Liquor Store had box red wine (Franzia) for cheaper than we can buy in the US. We also noticed that the expiration was today. Therefore, the manager offered it to us for a great discount. We told her we would be back. We went the other liquor store which is outside the gates of Treasure Cay about 3 miles away. We got a lot of exercise and met up with two ladies on golf cart and asked to be sure we were going the correct way. Turns out Sandy and her husband have lived here for 19 years from Atlanta and her friend, Tanya and her husband were visiting from Atlanta. We had a great visit and when asked our boat name, we told Sandy and she already knew of us. She is best friends with George and Johanne off of Romantisea. What a small world. She was told all about us by them and to keep an eye out for us. George and Johanne took their boat a couple of weeks ago from here and are headed north to Boston. We will see them when we are in the Chesapeake. Sandy offered to give us a ride, but we told her we needed the exercise. We were then off to Spanky’s liquor store. We arrived to find no boxed wine and the prices were not cheaper. The Kalik beers were $5.60 for 3. We were very parched and bought 3. We opened two in the store with the opener they had at the cash register. We toasted in the store and drank it as we left. We were able to bicycle down the road and take a sip of an ice cold beer. We are definitely in the Bahamas. We arrived back at the marina and bought the wine. It was now even more of a discount. How great. We paid half price for the wine! We then poured ourselves a glass of wine and were about to jump in the pool, when we met a fun group of Germans. One the gentleman and his wife live here 6 months out of the year and the other 6 in Germany. He is a pilot. They were celebrating Father’s Day today. In Germany, today is Father’s Day. All of the sons, nephews, etc. were here and they all had matching shirts that advertised Beck’s and said the Beck’s Boys are Back! They asked if Patty and I would take a photo with all of them. Of course, we did and one of the guys was playing the accordion the entire time that he had toted all the way from Germany. My madien name is German. I told them and they told me that they knew my cousin that is the famous acrobatic pilot, Patty Wagstaff. It reminded me of when we went to the BeerGartens in Germany. Tonight is pizza night at the Tipsy Seagull so we will check it out. We ordered a small conch pizza and drank our wine. What a deal!
May 14,
We worked on a few boat projects and then we were off to the beach. The beach is truly spectacular. The photos we took definitely do not do it justice. We did some great beachcombing and then it was off to the sandbar to hunt for sanddollars. SO MANY!! Wow! What fun and the sandbar went on forever. On the way back down Coco Beach, we saw Sandy and Tanya. What a small world. They were enjoying a girls’ day while the guys played golf. They were off to meet them for drinks at the Bahama Beach Resort. We had a great visit. We arrived back at the pool for a bit and then back to the boat. Patty and Chuck invited us over for a drink and also to discuss the Chesapeake charts and guides. They were full of great info and we look forward to exploring those places this summer. We are preparing for our departure tomorrow for Marsh Harbour and Hopetown.
May 15,
We arrived in beautiful Marsh Harbour. We have not been here in 2 1/2 years. It is definitely a different perspective being here by boat rather than a hotel. We enjoyed walking around town and walking over to the Abaco Beach Resort. Last time we were here, all of the sportsfishing tournaments had left and gone to Key West due to the price and limits of the fishing permits and other fees for the sportsfishermen. Hooters used to host a huge tournament every year along with several other sponsored tournaments. Well we arrived at the dock to see the Motor Yacht Hooter Patrol IV on the dock. We had seen the tender, Hooter Calendar at Nipper's in Great Guana a few days ago. We are still having great weather, thank goodness.
May 15,
We arrived in beautiful Marsh Harbour. We have not been here in 2 1/2 years. It is definitely a different perspective being here by boat rather than a hotel. We enjoyed walking around town and walking over to the Abaco Beach Resort. Last time we were here, all of the sportsfishing tournaments had left and gone to Key West due to the price and limits of the fishing permits and other fees for the sportsfishermen. Hooters used to host a huge tournament every year along with several other sponsored tournaments. Well we arrived at the dock to see the Motor Yacht Hooter Patrol IV on the dock. We had seen the tender, Hooter Calendar at Nipper's in Great Guana a few days ago. We are still having great weather, thank goodness.
We hope that this finds you all happy and healthy! We look forward to hearing from all of you and how all of you are doing! : )
Sincerely and cheers!
Bill and JoAnne and Sailor Kitty : )